All About the Art


It's coming, I can feel it under the surface. The flow is starting to return, I'm sure of it. I'm continuing to run through my circuits at the gym, nothing more than two goes. I've rarely crimped down hard and I'm going to ease my way back into it over the latter part of the month. The flash mentality and focus on style has changed my climbing completely, putting time into preparation efficiency and execution to ensure a first go send.  Its also made me think a lot about the way I approached problems outside.

Thinking back I've rarely pulled on in an attempt to flash a hard problem, if I'm honest I probably never believed I could execute in that way. It's something I'll be changing when I get back on rock. It also made me ponder my commitment to projecting, I struggle to think of problems I've specifically set out to project. I think the maximum time I ever put into projects was three sessions and it also explains why my flash grade outside and project grade were only one grade apart. 

It makes me wonder what is possible.

I've spent the last couple of days catching up on videos from the past five years, many of them featuring some of the best in the world projecting - 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 days work to complete their hardest problems. I ask myself when have I ever done that? I haven't. I've rarely committed to the art of the project - putting the time in, understanding the nuances, playing the mental game. 

So I've set myself two goals for this year, try to send the hardest flash I can and set myself a number of multi-session projects. 

Bring it on.

Neal Mann

New York City