Always Open

Never closed in the city that never sleeps

Never closed in the city that never sleeps

Training while dealing with an injury is all about compromise. You have to work around your body's limits to still try to get as much as you can from each session.  Under the remote guidance of my old training partner and now virtual physio Huffy, I've been managing to keep training but with some modifications.  The elbow issue I've been suffering from is linked to tightness in my back, regular rehab exercises have been opening it up and freeing the nerve pain.  My plans to get back into my campus and Beastmaker have had to be put back on hold though in favor of training big open moves. These don't activate the back muscles causing my issue and allow me to train pain free. 

I'm relishing this new training regime, being strong open is often a weakness for many people. It used to be a core part of my regular board sessions and ultimately it can only make you stronger on rock.  I'm sticking to attempting to flash problems so as not to put my body under too much pressure and I've managed to cruise a fair few of the problems at my local training venue this way.  Sure, the grades are probably softer than a block of butter left in the window on a hot NYC summer day - but in my injured comeback state I'll take the ego boost V7 flashes brings. 

Still less than two months into the comeback - training open feels like a blessing in disguise. I'm learning to activate the shoulders again,  concentrating on my core and using power on each move.  Initially I was distraught at breaking my training schedule, redesigning my route back to fitness - but then I remembered something important. 

What would Malc do?

Neal Mann

New York City

Editor