I took a little break from the office yesterday and made my way the ten or so blocks up to Central Park to check out some of the bouldering. I knew it was there, but in the years I've lived here, due to my lack of climbing, I've never really checked it out at all. It's not the most expansive of areas and some of the lines are a little contrived in places, but I'm a man who enjoys Stoney in the UK, where eliminates rule, so that doesn't put me off. Having lived in London I think many locals here don't realize how lucky they are to have bouldering on their doorstep. In the last month I've mentioned it to a few people at the wall and many I spoke to had written it off as poor and hadn't ever really bouldered there. Winter is cold here and it would be unclimbable in a lot of those conditions, as a result much of the rock had a layer of dirt on it - a bit of a clean would reveal some real gems.
Yoyo Jiminy is one of those gems.
The V11 is nestled in the middle of the park on the side of one of the lakes, right down by the waters edge. It's a great spot and the rock is of brilliant quality and the line is superb. A powerful couple of moves gets you established on two sidepulls and then you have a dynamic throw for the top. It would undoubtedly hold its own as a classic at any of the major bouldering areas around, for me the fact it is in the middle of one of the busiest cities in the world makes it extra special. It's high on my ticklist for when I am back in shape and the conditions are better.
On the same block just to the right is one of the hardest problems in a the park, a V12 put up by Ty Landman a couple of years ago and I think yet to see a second ascent.
Here are a couple of videos of the second and third ascents of Yoyo Jiminy V11.