Risky Business

It's coming, it's definitely coming slowly. The base strength is there, five years after I last touched rock. But so is a body that is now five years older and with that comes the risk.  

Trying to come back to climbing after five years feels hard, but I'm confident I can be stronger than before. Trying to come back with a body five years older makes me nervous. In my mid thirties I'm no old man by any means, but my body has been through the mill. Years of contact sport in my teens and the injuries that come with it has taken its toll. I can feel the tweaks in my shoulders, my left came on a few weeks ago and was dispatched with ice and prescription anti inflammatory. The right now has decided that it's its time.  

I can't really remember what tweaks I used to feel? What's normal? How far to push it?

It has been so long since my body creaked in that way.  Climbing is a particularly brutal and unique  bodily torture in so many ways. 

My fingers on the other hand have been behaving. My first session on the Beastmaker tonight went down well, I went through my old encore and repeater regime on the 35s before moving on. Back two max hangs on the small pockets and then a new crimp regime suggested to me by Dave Mason.  10 seconds on half crimped on the Beastmaker crimps then ten seconds off, rest ten seconds and repeat for a minute. Six sets of these with a three minute break between each. At the moment it feels brutal, but then I am 171 lbs and only one month back...

Now, back to that diet...

 

 

 

Neal Mann

New York City

Editor