Half Full

Strength, timing, precision. One pinch, one edge and one move. My fingers feel good on the left hand crimp; they should do, I've trained them hard enough. My right grips the pinch, wide and poor. My index slips into the right place, I raise my left foot to the edge, pull on and move. My body floats, stoping just at the right point, my fingers take the matchstick sized slopey edge and bite down. Fucking come on.

Shame that's only the stand up, still it's progress. One move into it and it'll be done.

I repeat it to make sure it's wired.

Indoors problems come and go, holds change and volumes move. With no fixed board at the wall, there are very few problems with a sense of history. There is no Perky Pinky here. Fortunately a certain Mr Landman left the odd legacy kicking around. They are hidden, know where to look and you'll find them. This one is a particular gem he showed to me earlier in the year, small poor featured holds with 2 precise tension moves. Ticking the stand up left me with that great buzz, the reason we do the sport we love, the reason we train.

My campus session felt slightly dull after, still it's a means to an end.